June 2019 Construction Journal

Helix Construction

After getting the majority of the curves cut, the next step is to build the support structure for the helix. Based on a suggestion from Brad Rotert, owner of the B&O Decatur Sub layout, I'm using the same box design to support the helix as I've been using on the rest of the layout so far. Each section will be 12" x 60" with 1/2" plywood tops on 1 x 4 lumber, probably with a 1 x 4 cross member in it. The boxes will be arranged so that they make a square 72" on a side. The helix will sit on top of the box and some of the inside curves will hang over the edge of the box. Each layer will be well-supported by the layers underneath, so a little bit of overhang is not a concern. 

The lumber cut list is as follows:

• (4) 12" x 60" 1/2" plywood - tops
• (8) 60" 1x4 pine - box sides
• (12) 10.5" 1x4 pine - box ends and crossmembers

The boxes will be bolted to each other and I'll make a leg pocket in each of the four corners. If one leg is not enough, I'll add more legs around the outer perimeter and possibly the interior perimeter, if necessary. 

Stack of curves to build the double-track helix.The inner track is 30" radius, the
outer track is 32.5" radius. Each piece is 7.5" wide, which accounts for track
spacing and for allows room for the support blocks. 

I got the boxes all built and laid out a circle on top to see if everything fits, and it looks like it does. The next step is to bolt the boxes together and cut the legs.

The support platform is 72" square and each section is 12" wide. There

is a small overhang in each corner but since the helix will be secured

to the boxes, this is not a real concern. 

The four support boxes got leveled and bolted together and then we started assembling the lower level entrance/exit with the other curves. 

We connected the first course of curves together using 1/2" plywood "plates" and some 1" wood screws. As the helix goes higher, I'm planning to use 4" wood blocks that are glued on the bottom and screwed in the top. This will let the blocks line up vertically and eliminate the need for a guard rail around the helix itself. Later in the week, I got all the blocks screwed down and I've got a nice smooth curve heading up. The next step is to draw the track alignments and lay down cork and track for the first course of the helix.

DCC/Electronics

After getting the right parts from RR-Cirkits and some education on how to make cables, I was able to get the east end yard crossovers and the arrival/departure turnouts wired up with Tortoises. It's so satisfying to hear that motor run when you click the icon on the JMRI panel.

Besides the five I installed tonight, I bench-wired the rest of the Tortoises I had, since it's far easier to do that than work above my head. Of the Tortoises that are left, 5 go to the west end of the yard (2 crossovers and the turnout between the two arrival/departure tracks), 4 go to the pair of crossovers to the east of the yard which allow access to staging and to the industrial district, and 3 more are heading elsewhere, probably to the industry tracks on the upper deck that are slightly out of reach.

Bench wiring Tortoise drives is far easier and safer than doing it under the layout. 

I also had to use longer .025" piano wire to reach the track, got it at Hobby Lobby. It's much easier to work with a longer wire and trim it than the included wire if your benchwork is thicker than they expect. To make it easier to mount the Tortoises, I used Scotch double-sided foam tape. This stuff is insanely strong and the screws are an afterthought, especially since some of the locations are impossible to reach with a screwdriver.

The next step in this project is to wire up the two remaining crossovers at the west end of the yard, as well as the turnout accessing arrival/departure tracks 1 and 2 in the yard. That will use up all 8 ports on the Motorman board, so I'm getting more on order. One of them will handle the mainline turnout on the upper deck right above the yard, as well as other turnouts down the line. Two of them will be used in the staging yards, which will allow me to do push button routing. I was going to wire each turnout individually but these are so much nicer and easier to work with, I decided to spring for the components.

I finished running feeders to the west end of my main yard. It turns out the parallel jaw pliers I got for making the 10 connector cables also work great for clamping down my suitcase connectors. The magnifying lamp I purchased from Menards makes it much easier to see what I'm doing, both above and below the layout. I put the lamp on my IKEA tool cart and can push it around to where I need it.